Time Traveling Tales

The Via Francigena in England

We’re six days into our trip and a few days into France. Since we’ve completed the English portion, I figured I’d give an overview of that before moving on (and before I forget).

In general, the route is amazingly beautiful. We had really amazing weather the first day and then rainy and wet weather the second day, although it did get sunny and warm at the end of the day. I absolutely loved walking by fields of sheep and cattle. We walked through a number of fava bean and rapeseed (canola) fields. The paths, at times, just felt like suggestions. It was so strange to us, as Americans, that we could just trudge right through a planted field!

We’ve been using a combination of the Via Francigena guide books from Cicerone, the VF phone app, and Google maps to help us find our way. The combination has been extremely helpful, answering I’m glad we have all 3 resources at hand. Thankfully, I could get a fairly inexpensive international phone plan through Verizon, so using my phone isn’t an issue.

Some highlights from England:

  • Meeting Luna the cocker spaniel at St Pancras station on our way to Canterbury
  • Seeing our friend Molly and getting a private tour of Canterbury Cathedral (Thank you Molly!!)
  • The extremely helpful and friendly staff at the Cathedral shop and lodge
  • Lambs! Sheep! Cattle! Calves!
  • Meeting Digby the cocker spaniel just outside Shepherdswell, our first stop
  • Walking along hedgerows and hearing cattle on the other side
  • Walking diagonally through actual fields of crops because why not?
  • Seeing Dover Castle after a long day of walking

We do realize we’ve never posted about what, exactly, we’re doing, or why we’re doing it, so be on the lookout for a couple posts coming up shortly.

Luna the cocker was very friendly and has the same coloring as our dog, Atlas.
In the garden of the Cathedral Lodge with our pilgrim passports. Thanks to Lisa for the stamp and photo!
Admiring the cathedral nave
With our friend Molly at the cathedral
At the starting stone on Wednesday, 15 May!
Thatched roof farm building!!!
A church in Patrixbourne built from flintstone, which is often prevalent in areas with chalk deposits.
Sheepies!
A short rest on a large tree
In Shepherdswell, the first stop! We picked up snacks and food from the co-op grocery.
Sunset in Eythorne. We couldn’t find lodging in Shepherdswell, so we walked ~1.5 miles up the road to a great AirBnb.
Day 2, just outside of Eythorne. This tree is impressively large!
A lovely herd of cattle.
Walking along the edges of fields between Eythorne and Dover
This path felt straight out of Lord of the Rings!
Dover castle, an impressive sight!
A pint of beer after a long day.
A view of the cliffs from the ferry to France!

Esther Hodges-LeClaire

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